Flea Information page 
 
Scientific Names: The Cat flea : Ctenocephalides felis  (Bouche)   
                             The Dog flea: Ctenocephalides canis (Curtis)

 
Appearance:        Cat and dog fleas can be found in the same areas. They are very similar in appearance. They are small, 1/8-inch long, wingless, laterally flattened, and have piercing-sucking mouthparts. The flea has very well-developed legs allowing it to jump at least six inches straight up. They are black-to-reddish brown. Its body is covered with backward projecting spines which help it to move between the hairs on the host animal. The head of the female cat flea is twice as long as it is high; the head of the female dog flea is less than twice as long as it is high. Both cat and dog fleas have a row of very heavy spines on the front of the head (i.e., the genal comb) and the back part of the first body segment (i.e., the pronotal comb). Cat and dog flea larvae are 1/4-inch long when fully developed. They look much like fly maggots except for their well-developed heads. They have 13 body segments and are dirty-white in color with backward projecting hairs on each body segment.They have a pair of hook-like appendages on the last abdominal segment.
Breeding 
Information:
Cat and dog fleas undergo complete metamorphosis. After eachblood meal, females lay four to eight eggs at a time (but 400 to 800total within her lifetime) on the host animal and/or in its bedding. Theeggs fall into the nest and/or bedding of the host animal or wherever theanimal happens to be at that time. The eggs hatch in about 10 days, and the developing larvae feed on the adult flea feces which contain bitsof dried blood. Depending on temperature, they molt three times in from seven days to several months. When mature, they spin silken cocoons in which they pupate. The pupal stage lasts up to 20 weeks. The adult cat flea often stays within the cocoon until vibrations stimulate it to emerge. Development (egg to adult) requires from 16 days to a year or more.
Activity Habits: Adult fleas feed on blood with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. They typically seek a blood meal within two days of becoming an adult. Cat and dog fleas prefer these two animals butreadily feed on other animals, e.g., racoons, opossums, rats, andhumans. Adult fleas remain on the host animal throughout their lifetime but are occasionally knocked off the animal by scratching.Occasionally, they can be found in the pet bedding and resting areas.Wild animals nesting in structures can initiate indoor flea populations.Larvae typically are found in areas where pets spend most of their time as well as in animal nesting areas.
Control:  Effective flea control requires customer cooperation and  involves three major steps: sanitation, insecticide application, and on-animal flea control. The house should be thoroughly vacuumed toremove larvae, pupae, and food materials. The vacuum cleaner bag should be sealed and discarded immediately after vacuuming.Vacuuming lifts the carpet fibers removing debris which, in turn, allowsthe pesticide to penetrate to the base of the carpet where the flea  larvae are found. Pet bedding should be discarded or washed in hot,  soapy water. 
      Indoors, residual insecticides in combination with an insect growth regulator which blocks development of the flea larvae should be applied to carpeted areas, furniture where pets reside, and cracks and crevices on hard floors. Humans and pets should remain out of the treated area until all surfaces have dried and the area has been ventilated. Outdoor areas which are frequented by the pet should be treated at the same time that the house is treated using microencapsulated or wettable  powder formulations. These products should be applied either as a spot treatment to areas frequented by the animal or as a broadcast treatment.
       The pet should be treated by a veterinarian, pet groomer, or the owneron the same day on which the house is treated. Numerous products are available for on-animal flea control, e.g., pills containing an insect  growth regulator, spot-on adulticides, flea collars, on-animal insect growth regulators, soaps, dips, etc. Regardless of the treatment, adult  fleas must be eliminated from the animal in order for treatment to be effective. Technicians should never apply any product to an animal.
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